Best performance brake kit for a 1999 1500 Silverado (2wd) pushing 750hp?

Unfortunately what you want to pay is irrelevant. 

750hp requires brakes capable of stopping that beast, even if you never use that level of power.

$1000 for that is just not even remotely realistic. That equates to just $250 per corner and that’s pretty much what you’d pay if all the calipers, pads, and discs (rotors) needed changing on an everyday small hatchback car using standard parts.

Your vehicle will large diameter vented discs at a minimum. Don’t bother with drilled/slotted discs: they reduce braking surface area and were only needed to disperse the gases produced by the old and now banned organic asbestos pads under extreme braking. Modern metallic/ceramic pads don’t outgas under very hard braking. The calipers will probably need to be 4-cylinder models and the front or rear discs/calipers will need to accommodate a handbrake mechanism (parking brake/emergency brake). Adapters will probably need to be fabricated to fit those calipers to the car.  That’s easier if the calipers you choose are already a popular modification to your vehicle as someone probably sells them already. 

Brakes like that typically also need an upgraded master cylinder as they take more fluid to operate and also may need a different rear load proportioning valve (if your truck uses one). Stick to standard road-grade pads. Harder racing pads or fast road pads are not good if you’re mostly doing cruising speeds; they won’t get hot enough to give their best performance.

Your budget overall will very likely need to be in the range of $1000 per corner (including the master cylinder and other system modifications).

If you’re still not able/willing to spend what’s necessary then compromise on the power output by limiting it to the braking system you are prepared to pay for.

NoWell If you put good OEM style rotors and calipers Maybe use ceramic brake pads too Even semi metallic pads of good quality .Will stop your truck .While upgrading the brakes ,and doing that upgrade properly it's going to be costly .But the factory brakes ,working properly should stop you depending on a few factors like the condition of your system now  your braking habits etc  .If it were me I'd use good  oem style rotors and calipers ,and pads Run it a few times Since it's new those runs won't usually be balls out full throttle passed until you have stuff dialed in .I'd see what happens with the factory system That's is functioning properly and see if you have any brake issues Mostly brake fade would be the the 2nd biggest potential issue to have the first is complete failure Which brake fade basically is But heat induced and not a immediate failure  The advantage to a aftermarket is the bigger rotors to dissipate more heat reducing the chance of brake fade Along with calipers that may have 2 or more pistons in it .multiple piston calipers offer more gripping power too .So with larger rotors ,and better calipers .along with braided brake hoses ,tied into steel lines make a very firm pedal too ..But honestly I don't think you'll really need all that Yet Do your tuning runs ,and dial it in .But make sure your brake system isn't half assed ,one siezed caliper ,a blown wheel cylinder .Kinda brake system .I think with gold after market rotors and calipers that are OEM style Using ceramic pads What you can do that'll help a lot ,and be cost friendly is out disc brakes on the rear of the truck You can them out a adjustable  proportioning valve Which allows you to control pressure to either front or rear or balanced between F and R brakes .It's far cheaper and you can save up for that brake upgrade and still drive your truck and get it dialed in Honestly unless you add nitrous ,and or turbos or any forced induction .Then I'd  say the brake upgrade is necessary .If your naturally aspirated . Then I'd lean to using the oem with rear disc ,using ceramic pads ,and the adjustable portioning valve .But I'm stressing the Factory brake system has to be in good shape You also may find that you won't have much vacuum to help with them power brakes either .So not sure what your cam is like But I'm gonna guess it'll make low vac at idle if at all .I'm guessing here not sure if that's going to be a issue But if it is you need  to address that too .Your brake power booster won't have the necessary vacuum needed for it to work properly  .Too little and they won't work very well  I'd look into a wilwood brake system if your gonna go that route .There good quality Decently priced and the parts fit well and they make the kits a straight forward fairly easy thing I'm sure there are lots of other upgrades you can get from a lot of manufactures .But I've only used wilwood upgrades myself .Or stayed with the OEM if there was a heavy duty version of your truck Look into that and see if the brakes used a larger rotor ,You can also do a hydra boost system which isn't dependant on engine vacuum to work .Uses power steering pump for constant pressure to help stop a lot of newer trucks .Brake fade won't usually he a issue at the drag strip Unless it's not working properly To be honest I've got about 650 on my on my 95 chevy truck I used to mess around at my local strip I never have or  had brake fade issues .