My beagle is UNtrainable?

Your problem is probably residual smell from places where she has pooed or peed. You think you've cleaned up and deodorized but a dog's nose is so much more sensitive than ours and since they seek out places they have 'been' before, they will go to the same ones and keep repeating the mistake. It's frustrating I know, but as well as using a dedicated pet soil cleaner anywhere she has her accidents, you have to work twice as hard on the training as previously. Her previous schedule is now not working so double or treble the trips outside and try some long 'poo walks', to give her new areas of interest. The poo eating thing? Yes, terrible to try to stop. The only effective method is to make sure there is never any around for her to eat.

Actually in the scheme of things, getting poohing in the wrong place is marginally easier than peeing! If your dog is now on 2 meals a day, she should be emptying that many times, perhaps plus one. Mine are on 2 meals a day, adults (5 and 6 years and both hounds) and will usually have a bowel movement as soon as they first go out in the morning (around 7 am). They then have their breakfast and if one hasn't had a BM first thing, I make sure that one goes back out and saying the word, produces a stool. One will empty again on his mid-morning walk and the other, who has never willingly emptied anywhere other than on her property, usually goes again some time during the morning, or early afternoon. Both are fed again by around 4 pm and will empty again at some point before bed. During the summer months, the back door is usually open so they can come and go, BUT I'm always aware that one or both has gone out and go out to see what's going on - AND PICK UP immediately/if I find something left out there. Both get the chance to empty before bed at around 10.30 pm. And usually my b itch will have another BM. This is with a normal stool. And on a diet that isn't based on cereal because often these bulked-up diets do produce more stool output.

If she regressed during her time in Kennels, then I'm afraid you'll just have to go back to puppy one, taking her out often, praising her when she empties outside, correcting in the act and cleaning up properly, any messes she happens to be able to make, without comment. She will be watching and pick up on your body language. And for now at least, I think I'd be confining her to somewhere 'mistakes' don't mean a major drama. If you know when she normally has a BM, just make sure she's able to go outside at that time.

As for pooh eating - there are as many reasons put forward for this, as remedies. For me, and I do tend to subscribe to a poor quality diet meaning it goes through only partially digested, so comes out still 'appealing, the ONLY answer is to be right there when it happens, and pick up. Many's a time I've been at the sink and seen mine go at a stool, bellowed NO! only to have them gobble it up fast, and run.

After a dog has urinated or defecated in the house, obviously you will clean this up. Perhaps you think that you have got rid of the smell and your friends will possibly confirm this, however your dog will still be aware of a smell. Your dog thinks that your house is a lavatory/toilet; dogs have a much greater sense of smell than we have.
There is a washing machine powder called Ariel get the BIOLOGICAL version Or get some special cleaning solution from the pet shop and clean your floor with this. You must also re-clean the cage, the floor under the cage and the blankets. When you are sure that you have cleaned every part of the floor that your dog has pooed or peed on do the following.

When your dog urinates outside and when it is in full flow use a catch phrase I say “get one”, always use the same catch phrase when your dog obliges. Praise profusely afterwards, let your dog sniff around the garden or yard and play with it. Use your catchphrase for the rest of your dog’s life and when it’s an adult it will pee on command.

If your dog urinates on the floors or carpets that you have cleaned, you have not cleaned them enough and you will need to do them again. NEVER EVER USE PINE DISINFECTANT OR BLEACH BECAUSE THIS ENCOURAGES A DOG TO URINATE,

If you add courgettes/zucchini or tinned pineapple to a dogs food, they will stop eating poo.

It's possible it picked up something at the day care. So start by taking it and fresh urine/fecal specimen to a vet.

No dog is un-trainable some may require more patience, consistency, diligence and time (minimum 6-18 months, if done properly, to start) on your part.

Obviously she wasn't yet trained when you went on vacation.

Did you spend the above minimum time to train it?

As mentioned some dogs may take more than the minimum time and if not done properly some will never be trained, not the dogs fault, the owners.

Did you clean all the soiled areas immediately and properly by first removing all the liquids/solids and: http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e224/GLLNTKNIGHT/carpeturine_zps07ea7542.jpg ?

First and foremost, you're suppose to be constantly supervising her, contain when you can't, immediate correction when caught in the act. She can't eat it if you supervise/correct and immediately pick it up.

She may have been confined in a crate at the day care, not exercised properly and soiled her crate and they failed to clean it up immediately, hence she started eating it.

You must also realize once she is trained, it doesn't stop there, it's your responsibility to continue enforcing what was taught on the daily basis for the rest of the dogs life, 12-17 years

Good luck..

Find what motivates your dog. Some dogs do anything for food. Some dogs do anything for Toys. Some do anything for a good petting. Some do anything for only one type of food, like cheese, or hotdog. Some only have interest in training for 5 minutes at a time, and others can go for an hour. Figure out what your dog is willing to work for, and then work with her in sessions that are no longer than she can tolerate. Learn how to train your dog properly http://OnlineDogTraining.enle.info/?iI1m

Sign up for a dog obedience training class. It will not train your dog. It will give you training on how you can train your dog. Most people understand the idea of training, but there is a right and a wrong way to do it, and there is good and bad technique. Timing and consistency is very important, and it helps to have feedback of someone watching you who can help you improve your technique to get more efficient results with your dog.

However, she may be somewhat anxious around other dogs, sort of like the shy kid on the playground. She will benefit from continuing what you are doing as far as asking her to sit before entering, but there are more things along those lines that will help her to calmly go in and out of the dog park. She may also benefit from going in short bursts, or only when fewer dogs are present, or avoiding times when other dogs that make her nervous are present. Maybe she just plays loud - my brother's dog is this way - or maybe she is a dogpark bully - sorry it is possible. But more likely she is just a little anxious around new dogs and she wants to play but just doesn't quite know how to do that and still feel comfortable. Don't be surprised if your dog does not actually like the dog park, and maybe she would get more enjoyment and less stress out of simply going for a good walk somewhere else.

A wagging tail does not mean that your dog is happy or even comfortable with the situation. It means your dog is emotionally aroused. This could be a happy arousal, or it could be a nervous arousal, or it could be an aggressive arousal. Go youtube it, there are plenty of videos of 'vicious' dogs who are throwing a very aggressive fit of barking and snarling while their tail is wagging vigorously. Even police dogs who are not let off the leash to chase down a suspect can be lunging and barking and snarling, and their tails are still going.

It's not untrainable. No dog is completely untrainable. Some are just more stubborn than others. The beagle being one of the stubborn ones. But let me tell you what I have found works with most dogs... Positive reinforcement! It's a good training method, and most dogs respond well to it. Here's even a quick example: First, get your dogs attention (using treats at first help, later down the road you can stop giving treats each time). Show him the treat and ask him to sit. Just keep saying, "Sit." After a few times, if he does not, push his butt (gently and calmly) to the ground to make him sit. Once he is in the sit position tell him what a good boy he is and reward him with his treat. It may take a few tries at it, or maybe even a few days for the stubborn dogs, but they will get it. And this technique can be used to teach them any trick, not just sit.

For poo eaters - try to change her over to a fish based kibble if you haven't tried this yet. I had two, and they stopped completely when we went from a chicken and rice kibble to a whitefish and sweet potato kibble. The food is better digested, stools much firmer, and the dogs completely ignore the feces. The yard is still picked up twice a day, but I don't have to follow dogs all the time now.

I'm glad you have your dog on a schedule to regulate her bowels. I feed 12 hours apart, 5:30 am & 5:30 pm. The dogs usually will have bowel movements regulated by when you feed them if you are consistent about it. (and you don't fill the dog up with treats during the day)

Beagles have the most amazing noses! Unfortunately, the same thing that makes them amazing bomb and drug sniffing dogs, makes it harder to housebreak her. If a dog can smell any urine/feces left behind, they will return to that spot that says "bathroom" to them. You might want to buy a black light and go over your rooms with it. Any left behind pee spots, skid marks and stains will glow under the light, and you can see any where that needs attention.

Keep being consistent, focus on supervising the dog, so there are no more accidents in the house - and you should be able to get this little beagle's housebreaking completed.

Couldn't be bothered to read but my awnser is yes