Best canon camera for model photography!?

You don't need a new camera. Equipment is never the only answer. You need to boost your photography skills.

If you want to max background blur then spend your cash on a wide aperture prime lens.
Lowest cost is the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 MkII available for around £60.
The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM is a step better in build quality and with a 7 blade aperture will give better quality blur.
If you want real blur the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 is for you.

I use a 20yr old 50mm MkI (that is the original version of thre EF 50mm f/1.8) and the 85mm on a 450D body (3 models older than yours) and get great results.

No matter what lens you have, unless you know what you are doing you won't get the results.

'Completely blurs the background' is a depth-of-field issue, which has to do with aperture size, focal length, etc., and not the camera body. You can take those sort of pictures, or any great pictures for that matter, with pretty much any camera if you know what you're doing. Whereas if you don't know what you're doing, no camera is going to help.

No you don't you need to learn how to use what you have. A new camera is not going to be any different from your current model, you will get exactly the same photos out of it.

What you need is a lens, not a camera. Even with the kit lens, blurred backgrounds are not difficult, IF you know how to do it. Apparently you do not.

If you must have the best, then for a mere $5,000 you get the Canon 1Ds Mk III and be happy. You will also need all new lenses, as none of the EF-S lenses for the Rebel line will work.

If you were to buy the most expensive model that Canon currently makes (the 1Dx) your pictures would not look any different. Your issue is with the depth of field (the area that's in focus) which is currently too large and therefore not getting the background out of focus enough for your tastes.

The Depth of Field (DOF) is basically what ever is in focus in the shot. That's it. It's affected by three things:
1. Focusing distance - the closer you get to your subject, the shallower the DOF. This is why when you take shots of insects you may only get 1/4" of DOF, but turn around with the same lens and focus on the mountains and your depth of field suddenly changes from 1/4" to something like 10' to infinity.

2. Focal length - The longer the focal length, the shallower your DOF. This is why it's easy to get 4' to infinity in focus with a 10mm lens, but not possible with a 300mm lens. The depth of field for any given focal length, for example 50mm, is the same regardless of what camera is used. Put a 50mm onto a full-frame DSLR or an APS-C DSLR and take a shot at the same distance and f/stop and the depth of field will be the same for both shots. This can be confusing because of the crop factor of the APS-C camera. On an APS-C DSLR, a 50mm is the equivalent of an 80mm on a full-frame DSLR. True, but in angle of view only. The DOF of the 50mm, regardless of the format, will always be the same. So a 50mm on a Micro 4/3 (100mm in 35mm format), an APS-C (80mm in 35mm format) or on a medium format 6x7 camera (24mm equivalent to 35mm format) and the angle of view changes due to the size of the sensor or film, but the depth of field is exactly the same. This is why it's difficult to get blurred out backgrounds as the format of the camera becomes smaller. You're using lenses with shorter and shorter focal lengths, which therefore produces a larger amount of DOF. Those who use medium or large-format cameras have just the opposite problem. They have the problem of not being able to get enough DOF. However, it's because of the shallow DOF that medium format cameras produce that the look that they produce is so unique and not easily reproduced with smaller format cameras, if at all.

The third thing that directly affects the DOF is your aperture. The larger the size of the aperture, the smaller or shallower your DOF. So f/1.4 will produce a very shallow DOF while f/22 will produce much, much deeper DOF.

So what can you do? You need to start using the longer focal lengths, get in fairly close to the subject and use a large aperture like f/4-5.6. Since you want to blur out backgrounds, it will greatly help if the background is not within the DOF. Therefore, by placing your subject further away from the background, the background will have to be blurrier. However, this is not always possible, which is why professional portrait photographers often need to use lenses with larger apertures like f/1.4 - f/2.8.

You don't mention what lens you are using, but I would guess that it's the 18-55 kit lens. Try this techniques with your current lens set to a zoom position of at least 50mm. Remember, a longer focal length is going to blur the background more. If after testing you're are happy with the results, then you don't need to buy anything. Otherwise, you will now know that you need to add to your kit.

If you need to get another lens to get the look that you want, you have to get either a prime lens like the 50mm or longer, or get a zoom lens like the 55-250 or the 75-300. While these lenses only offer f/4-5.6 apertures, their longer focal lengths will get you closer to the look that you want. A prime lens, which will have a much larger aperture like f/1.4 - 1.8, will do a better job than the zooms that I've mentioned. If you want a zoom to get nearly the same look, then you'll need to get a 70-200 f/2.8 lens.

You need to learn the photographic technique for taking "blurred background" photos -- not a new camera.

HINT: Use the longest focal length lens that you have and is practical, get as close to your subject as is practical, use the smallest f-stop as will give you a correct exposure, and put as much distance between your subject and the background as is practical.

All cameras where you can adjust the f/stop & shutter speed have this ability. Maybe instead of buying a DSLR like is over recommended on this web site. You poeple would be better off learning a bit about photography. I recommend Scot Kelby's books, they are easy to understand and reasonable in price. THEN buy a camera matching your ability and understanding of the subject of photography. Your picture satisfaction will be much greater with learning under your belt than an expensive DSLR, which you have no idea of how to operate, hanging around your neck.

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Best Canon Camera

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you could opt for "canon powershot sx 110is" its a powerful camera. 9 Megapixel sensor telescopic - 10x optical zoom Optical Image stabiliser (to prevent handshakes from ruining you pics) Macro closeup focus to 0.39 inches has a "manual" mode 1.2 frames per second continuous shooting 3 inch LCD display Shutter speeds from 15 secs to 1/2500 sec ISO sensitivity: Auto, High ISO Auto or 80, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 and the design and the nody is good even though its slightly large

love this brand and own one

powershot

Professional canon

the third answer is most correct and ALWAYS read the manual, and know that the camera MIGHT have limitations but at abt 16 MP and 1080p there are becoming less limitations.

ALSO take a camera course at a local Junior college,

I want it!

i think nikon would be better for phtographs

Buy a 35mm 1.8 or 50mm 1.8 lens .Maybe a book on beginning photography . Your local library should have a few .

try the Canon 54FT super slim.

Get a book on photography and read about depth of field and the other aspects of photography. A high end camera is nice, but only if you can do well with a low end camera.

Darest are usually best

canon camera is a best for pictuer...

shop camera cheap best buy hot http://bestbuyhot.com

Blurred

all camera are the best

When you say "modelworthy" what do you mean? "Models" as in attractive females? Models as in small representations of objects (e,g, model cars for children to play with)? Or are you saying that the 600D is not a worthy model of camera in your opinion?

First check your camera technique. That camera, with a high aperture lens such as f1.8, can give you blurred backgrounds as long as you observe the rules for getting blurred backgrounds - which are basically the same for any camera and lens. If the 2models" are indeed "toys" or similar then buy a good macro lens, probably in the range of 60mm to 100mm; NB a "prime lens", not a so-called zoom macro.

If you simply buy a different camera or lens without applying the camera techniques for blurred backgrounds you will be equally disappointed with whatever you buy.

ask the best buy guy

The lens setting (aperture) is responsible for the focus area of the subjects foreground or background of a photo, not the camera. You don't need a new camera, just look through your available lenses to get the "look" you want.

700D

Sounds like you have a DSLR. If that's the case, research some new lenses!

Bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha!

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/982530-REG/pentax_10985_k_50_digital_slr_camera.html

However, no matter how great the camera is, it can only be as good as its user. Picture quality depends on you. The camera is only a tool.

What you re talking about has nothing to do with your camera. It s about light and your lenses.
Check out some different lenses especially those intended for lower light. Then learn how to
properly light your model.

A box camera.

The best you can do with an APS-C sensor like that is to get a 50mm f1.8 lens. You have the background as far way as possible, the aperture as wide open as good ISO will allow, and position your model about 1/3rd of the way into the shot and focus on their eyes. (If you go closer you will distort their face and they will not be happy). You could get even better background bokeh from an 85mm lens but then it is not much good for small groups.

If your budget allows (5 or 6 x as much) then get a 35mm sensor camera and an 85mm portrait lens (that would be like a 55mm on your camera in terms of the crop made by your sensor.). You should also get studio lights, backgroundds and reclectors. Pro photograhy is a business requiring investment, talent and patiently-learned skills.

Camera? 5DMk111 or 6D

I think that cameras aren't necessary these days. A smartphone is much easier to use, plus you don't need to carry a mobile phone and a seperate camera around. I have heard rumors of a touchscreen Nokia 3310 with a 42 MP camera.

Nikon D4 (Body Only)
For Nikon devotees looking for the fastest body available, the D4 delivers.

Canon EOS 5D Mark III
While it's not a no-brainer upgrade over the Mark II, the Canon EOS 5D Mark III is worth the price premium if better performance and configurability matter to you.

Nikon D800 (Body Only)
An unsurprisingly great camera that's worth every penny of its higher price for its target market of professional nonsports photographers, the Nikon D800 should definitely please those who've been waiting patiently to replace their older Nikon equipment.

Sony Alpha SLT-A99 (Body Only)
The Sony Alpha SLT-A99V is a generally great camera that's equally adept at both stills and video, but with a few caveats.

Canon EOS 5D Mark II
A great follow-up to the 5D and top-flight full-frame camera, the Canon EOS 5D Mark II delivers the fluid shooting experience and fine photos you expect from a professional model.

Nikon D300S
The Nikon D300s is a great camera, especially if you need the burst speed or slightly improved low-light focus, but if you don't care about video you might consider looking for a really good deal on a D300 and using what you save to splurge on a good lens.