Electric Meter Reverse Detection Threshhold Question?

Hey Matt, seeing as you posted this on Yahoo UK, I am assuming your home operates at 240 VAC. In that case, if the meter is set for 1 amp detection, in theory, no, you should not get a reverse current detection. It sounds like you are trying to do what people at Home Power Magazine used to call "guerilla solar." Installing panels with grid tie inverters that you use to export power out onto the utilities grid without their permission. My suggestion is think this through before you try it. It's a little like driving your car at 9.5 mph so the 10 mph seat belt alarm doesn't go off. If you hit one little bump and the speed registers 10 for a split second, the alarm runs for the rest of your life. Once detected, reverse current messages cannot be erased even by the guy that reads the meter.

There is a very good write up about these exact meters at OpenEnergyMonitor.org, you should read it. Most of these meters us a parallel, or "shunt" circuit that taps a small portion of electrons traveling through them and feeds them into a capacitor. Once the capacitor is full, it sends a signal to the register that one "packet" of energy has passed, and a number is added to the display. The capacitor is then emptied in a microsecond and begins filling again. If you feed small amounts of power backward, the packet will begin draining before it is full, which is fine, unless it is emptied while the reverse current is flowing. Once this capacitor has a negative balance, even way less than the 10Wh rating, the reverse flow indicator is activated. All the 10 Wh refers to is the size of one packet, it doesn't mean that's how much reverse flow it needs to trigger.

Their suggestion is to take your excess solar energy and apply it to a dump load, which heats your water instead of feeding the grid. One idea. Solar panels have watt ratings, like 200 watts. That rating is only accurate in ideal conditions and expected temperatures. Most panel companies will warn you if you install your panel in sub freezing temperatures you must upgrade your panel wiring. This is because they actually put out more power than they are rated for in cold weather. Ours do quite regularly in the winter.

If it were me, and I was installing 200 watts of solar, I wouldn't bother with the grid tie inverter and the packet cheating scheme. Instead, I would simply feed the 12 volt ouput of the panel to a 12 volt deep cycle battery. A pair of golf cart batteries work well for this. Then use the 12 volt DC power for strip lighting, cell phone and ipad chargers, and other small electronic loads. This will have the same effect of offsetting some of your electric use, but the really good news is all these 12 volt items continue to work even if the grid power is out. If you tie a solar panel to the grid with an inverter, and the grid goes down, so does the panel, and you have no access to its electricity even if the sun comes out subsequently. The batteries are generally cheaper than the inverter anyway, and if you ask me, it's a project that is more fun and productive than cheating the power company out of 3 cents of electricity. Check out the websites below for more info and some cool 12 volt devices you can run yourself with electrons you grow in your own garden. We've been doing it for 13 years now. Take care Matt, Rudydoo

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remove your meter and turn it upside down and then put it back in...............

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The history of the various policies regarding solar power is an interesting one.

Initially, we had analog meters which would just run in reverse when power was fed back into the grid. The only way for the utilities to know for sure that power was feeding back was if one monthly reading was lower than the prevous, they did not like this at all as they prefer selling you power at the rate they offered you and buying the power at commercial bulk rates which are well less than a quarter of what they charge you yet the analog meter allows the power to be sold to the utilities at the same rate it's purchased from the utilities at. So the utilities fought back.

Initially, they tried to outlaw the grid tied installations on the grounds of safety which is a valid concern as the grid tied inverters can not be switched off from a central source but to be honest, some of the public secretly enjoyed the idea of frying someone from the utilities though it would've been preferable to fry a manager rather than a linesman. So the attempts to ban solar was simply not well received.

They then suggested you could produce up to your consumption in a billing cycle but any excess would be bought back at half market rate. This was because since they couldn't tell power was flowing back unless a meter reading was lower than a previous reading, they had no choice but to but the power back at the same rate as they sold it up to your level of consumption but as they could do something about any power provisions more than your consumption, the 50% was selected to match the charging inefficiencies of lead acid batteries therefore grid tied would be little better than grid free. Of course, this really wasn't seen as generous since the hope of the public was to save up power from long summer days for use on cold winter nights.

Then the digital smart meters came out which could report on which direction the energy flowed so they mandated that digital meters must be used. There's no technical reason, just that digital meters could be used to have different rates on what they charged you for power and what they bought the power from you at. As is tradition with public utilities, the consumer pays for the infrastructure to their premises hence the consumer would have to pay for this means to pay them less. As the technical reasons were a facade, they lobbied the government for tariff rebates which would pump up the rates at which they bought power from the public not out of their own pocket but out of taxes in general. This would make it advantageous for people to pay for the smart meters which really just allows the utilities to screw them later. And the public fell for the ploy.

The power in a household is split power fed through a center tapped transformer giving a home two phases, 180 degrees apart. Hence a North American Home has two 120 VAC from which 240 VAC can be derived by combining the circuits but the feed side of the center tapped transformer can be 7,000 VAC to 9,000 VAC ( That's what's in the overhead lines ). The UK power is 220 VAC on each of the split. The meter will be over both of the split phases or over the actual feed line, hence the 10 amps indicates that the meter is slow to flag a warning to the utility that power is being sent back, this hysteresis is needed to prevent false readings. Keeping your solar power under the current limit would effectively allow your production of power to be at the exact same rate as your purchase price which in the UK would be pointless since the feed in tariffs assures you a better price selling to the grid than buying up to a given limit. Even if you do provide power without flagging a notice, if you exceed your energy consumption, they will still know that you are providing power by the reading being lower than that of the previous cycle. Over the combined split phases of a UK home, 1 amp would amount to 440 watts more than your consumption levels and at that power production, it would take 1 minute and 22 seconds to register a flow back hence you could only do a 400 watt panel surreptitiously which would only give you less of a return in the UK. You will want to check the output of your grid tied inverter but a split phase only grid tied inverter would be unusual as it would unbalance the split phases, dramatically changing the voltage of the neutral line to the center tap. 200 watt would be playing it safe if indeed your home is not split phase but I think a non split phase home would be extremely unusual even for the UK which likes to preserve strange electrical anachronisms. Again, there is no advantage in a covert solar system in the UK with the government subsidies in place.