Help suggest good socialization for puppy?

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[Michael]:
#1:
Learn about how vaccination EVENTUALLY produces immunity. Although at least one vaccine manufacturer now claims that its vaccine needs only one shot, given at 10 weeks old, I prefer the "shots at 8, 12 and 16 weeks - and that's it for life" protocol. Most vaccines given before 10 weeks old are destroyed by the "passive immunity" (antibodies) passed to whelps in their dam's colostrum ("first milk"). But the "passive immunity" drops each time some of its antibodies are used to destroy invading viruses (including the attenuated viruses injected as vaccines) until they are all used up. By constant titre-testing it is possible to work out which day is suitable for injecting a vaccine that won't be destroyed - but pups don't enjoy the constant blood-draws, hence the protocol. You can NOT rely on any vaccination having worked until 2 weeks after it was given - which tends to mean not until 2 weeks after the boosters given at *16* (not 12!) weeks old. Study http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/The_GSD_Source/links/all/Vaccination_001199872827 and, if you are in a rabies area, use the Rabies link to donate to the team researching to prove to the most ultra-conservative legislators that rabies-immunity lasts for l.ife, or for at least 7 years.
Be aware that people can carry viruses onto your property on their hands & shoes, and cats can carry viruses on their paws. Life is NOT risk-free!

#2:
Stop using the word "socialisation" - it fools beginners into thinking that it means "playing socially with other dogs".
I use the term "familiarisation-&-confidence-building" to point out that pups NEED a whole range of safe-&-fun (in PUP's opinion!) experiences of every movement, scent, sight, sound and texture in their environment.
Once Pup trusts you to protect it, they begin inside your 'home quarantine' fenced area & house.
As the crucial confident-&-curious period ends when pups reach 13 weeks old, you can't wait until the vaccinations are sure to have worked, so - 2 weeks after the shot given at 8 weeks old - you DRIVE pup to places where dogs do NOT run free, do NOT piddle-poo-vomit. And there you encourage your pet to "explore in all directions at once" at the end of a 6-or-10ft leash, using the leash to haul it away from dangerous or disgusting things, standing still & silent when it needs to think about whether a "new thing" is dangerous, praising it (and giving it a rub if it's still close enough to you) when it investigates a "new thing".

My first pup never saw another pooch after being given to me at about 6 weeks old. My first GSD never saw another dog between being bought at Easter 1967 and us moving to a city & joining a training club in about March 1968. My current GSD never saw another dog between being collected at 8½ weeks old and being taken to a Ribbon Parade at 6 months old.

Pomeranians (which my sister breeds) are too tiny to survive challenges by other dogs.

Add
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/The_GSD/Source/
to your browser, so that you can easily look up all sorts of information about dogs, especially GSDs.

King Les - first pup in 1950; GSD breeder & trainer as of 1968

Find what motivates your dog. Some dogs do anything for food. Some dogs do anything for Toys. Some do anything for a good petting. Some do anything for only one type of food, like cheese, or hotdog. Some only have interest in training for 5 minutes at a time, and others can go for an hour. Figure out what your dog is willing to work for, and then work with her in sessions that are no longer than she can tolerate. Learn how to train your dog properly http://OnlineDogTraining.enle.info/?m3jh

Sign up for a dog obedience training class. It will not train your dog. It will give you training on how you can train your dog. Most people understand the idea of training, but there is a right and a wrong way to do it, and there is good and bad technique. Timing and consistency is very important, and it helps to have feedback of someone watching you who can help you improve your technique to get more efficient results with your dog.

However, she may be somewhat anxious around other dogs, sort of like the shy kid on the playground. She will benefit from continuing what you are doing as far as asking her to sit before entering, but there are more things along those lines that will help her to calmly go in and out of the dog park. She may also benefit from going in short bursts, or only when fewer dogs are present, or avoiding times when other dogs that make her nervous are present. Maybe she just plays loud - my brother's dog is this way - or maybe she is a dogpark bully - sorry it is possible. But more likely she is just a little anxious around new dogs and she wants to play but just doesn't quite know how to do that and still feel comfortable. Don't be surprised if your dog does not actually like the dog park, and maybe she would get more enjoyment and less stress out of simply going for a good walk somewhere else.

A wagging tail does not mean that your dog is happy or even comfortable with the situation. It means your dog is emotionally aroused. This could be a happy arousal, or it could be a nervous arousal, or it could be an aggressive arousal. Go youtube it, there are plenty of videos of 'vicious' dogs who are throwing a very aggressive fit of barking and snarling while their tail is wagging vigorously. Even police dogs who are not let off the leash to chase down a suspect can be lunging and barking and snarling, and their tails are still going.

Once you get her completely vaccinated get her out around dogs. You want her to get used to other animals when she's young. My dog wasn't around other dogs & such until she was about 3 & by then it was too late for her. She attacked 3 dogs & 2 people. Scold your dog if it even growls. Teach it that growling & snarling is not tolerable.

http://info.drsophiayin.com/Portals/13722/docs/DrYinPupSocializationList.pdf

:)
On that website, it says experiences must be positive as opposed to negative or neutral. I agree positive is best, but neutralisation can be good too.
For positive, it's simple, make each experience wonderful for the puppy. New people, that play with her, dogs that play with her etc.
No neutral, it's making you the best person in each situation. So new, person, YOU give her treats ;) so the other person becomes neutral. There are positive and negatives for each. But they must be researched :) I can give you an article of neutralisation if you are interested :)

Puppy can be introduced to calm, stable adult dogs that 1) display appropriate dog behaviour/social behaviour and 2) are vaccinated. It must be stable and an adult. As adults ARE most stable generally ;) so see if friends or family have such dogs. Otherwise see about contacting your countries kennel club, as they may know of get togethers. Obedience lessons are good for training and socialisation.

Puppy classes are good too. However, must be chosen carefully. They must be run by someone competent and they you feel is knowledgeable. They must not be free for all lay sessions. All interactions between dogs must be carefully controlled. Eg, only two puppies of similar size at a time can interact together.

Until fully vaccinated, pup should not visit any doggy areas, such as grassy areas near the footpath, dog parks etc. she can go for very short walks up and down the path, but don't let her wander and sniff, interact with unknown dogs, etc
Every else you want to take her, do it in your arms. She's pretty small, so walk everywhere with her until she's vaccinated. She shouldn't get used to being carted around :p

Also don't tense when she's in different or stressful situations, eg, new place, new people, new dog. As she may feed off of you body language and think this new thing is bad, as you obviously think it's bad ;)

Edit. This is good too: http://www.petprofessionalguild.com/Resources/Documents/PPG-Client-Puppy-Socialization-Download.pdf

http://leerburg.com/pdf/socializepuppies.pdf
http://leerburg.com/puppytraining.htm

No. She needs to be fully vaccinated. And I'd want to have my vet do this, much as I know people outside the UK do it themselves, I much prefer for a vet to do a full health check before considering vaccinating a puppy. By 10 weeks she's quite able to have the full set of vaccination, not just against Parvo too, with a repeat at the interval your vet prefers. In the UK, it's usually done with a 2 week gap, although some vets prefer to leave 3 weeks.

As for interacting with other dogs, even if the dogs are healthy and fully vaccinated, they can still walk infection in so when we have puppies around we restrict where any adults go off our property. Right now your puppy is at risk for all the sometimes fatal dog diseases, apart from Parvo because any natural immunity she'd have from mum only lasts up to around 5 weeks of age, after which time it gradually drops away. 8 weeks is generally considered the right time to begin external vaccination with the hope it will 'take'.

If her temperament is basically sound, once she's safe to be off your property and meet other dogs, she shouldn't be fazed by this. If you want her to see the outside world, you could take her out in your car with you - but NOT on the ground.

ps Even people can walk infection in, so at the moment, much as it may sound extreme, as it only take one dog, I'd have people wash hands, and remove shoes.