夜間影相問題

1. Since the flash light can only light up the front object but can't reach the far away background, that's why the front object would be too bright.
If you use " P " or " A " mode, the shutter speed might be too slow and so you will result a blurry image due to camera movement.
Solution could be: set up a tripod, use " rear-curtain " sync (if the camera/flash has this feature). Let the camera has enough time to capture the dark ambient light first, and then the " rear-curtain " flash to light up the front object afterwards.

2. 肖像模式 is one of the " preset " settings, that would choose both of the aperture and shutter speed in an " averagely suitable " setting. For 肖像模式, it would probably pick a larger aperture (maybe somewhere around f2.8 - 4) and a not-too-slow shutter speed in order to provide a acceptably correct exposure. And so the result is not too pleasing usually.
Solution: same as above.

3. Using 夜景模式, shutter speed would be slower than usual, such as 1/8, 1/2, 2"..... etc (depends on the ISO setting and the location), and that's why it will cause a blurry image due to camera movement. Using a tripod is almost a must.

ISO:
The higher the speed (such as 800, 1600...), the more sensitive to lights. That means you can use a higher ISO to capture images in darker situations with a reasonably fast shutter speed.
On the other hand, the lower the speed (such as 200, 100...), the less sensitive to lights. That means you can use a lower ISO to capture images in bright situations within your fastest shutter speed limit.

About 白平衡:
If time is allowed during shooting, make some test shots everytime when you change the shooting location under different lighting. You may either use the auto white balance (usually not 100% accurate) or set to your own custom setting up to your desire.
If you're shooting in a rush, use Photoshop (or other software) for editing afterwards.

影雪景:
DO NOT EVER TRUST YOUR CAMERA'S AUTO METERING!!!
Since snow has high reflective index (even in cloudy days), it will cheat your camera's auto metering to use a faster shutter speed and a smaller aperture in order to give a normal exposure. However, your pictures will turn out under exposed and the snow will appear totally in grey! Moreover, a suitable aperture is very important. An over-large aperture may result no details on snow, turns out very flat. A too-small aperture may result grey snow.
Example solution:
- Pick a suitable ISO (bright sunny day or cloudy day).
- Use " A " mode at the beginning (suggested aperture would be between f5.6 - f8). DO NOT point to the snow yet, try to focus on something in " neutral " color, such as green trees, brown houses, blue jackets... etc,
- Switch to " M " mode, and set to that reading by " A ".
- Take some test shots, see whether you are satisfied with the outcome or not. If not, make some fine changes such as + or - stop(s) if necessary.
Whenever lighting sitations/locations may changed, repeat testing procedure if needed.
- Fill flash may need to apply on front objects (people) if necessary.

睇下用咩mode影....
個人影夜景唔會用default...
因為出黎d相智會咁好...

影夜景要慢快門(2s+)...細光圈(F5+)...
~ISO100都ok...

ISO係部相機pick up幾多光...
大ge話就會有一點點(雜訊)出黎..

雪景-->睇下你係唔係落緊雪...
唔係ge話用[P] mode影就ok...
落緊就睇下你想點影...
大光圈/快門冇咩所謂...